This is the problem of multi-battery drain. So, no matter how many batteries you have on your vehicle, the accessories connected to one will draw power from the other batteries in the circuit. The discharged battery will always rob power from a charged battery. If a fully charged battery is connected directly parallel with a discharged or empty battery, the voltage pressure in the full battery will force its current into the empty battery until the current stored in both batteries reaches a common level. It is important to think of batteries as storage tanks. The current then flows through the wires (pipes) to the accessories. The alternator pumps current (water) into the batteries (storage tanks). Electrical current is equal to the flow of water and voltage is equal to the pressure. To understand the problem of multi-battery drain and how a Sure Power Battery Isolator prevents it, think of electricity as water. It doesn't require any splicing or mods to the stock wire loom either.Many vehicles and other types of equipment have multiple batteries: one to start the engine and others to power accessories. I replaced the Sure Power with a Hellroaring Technologies MOFSET solid state switch and love it. It's a fairly simple installaion that almost works - EXCEPT IT WILL RUIN YOUR BATTERIES. The solenoid provides a handy platform to wire in both the 2 ga main battery feeds and the 8 ga charge wires from the isolator. Flipping the dash switch shorts the two batteries together and will 'self' jump start the vehicle. The solenoid is usually open allowing the isolator to isolate the batteries with internal diodes. I added a solenoid between the 1 and 2 batteries with a switch in the dash. The +12 v is normally provided by the large white charge wire but, since the diodes deny backflow of current from the batteries you have to add a new source. ![]() It is necessary to 'excite' the alternator field so it can start charging. The E post requires +12V coming from the ignition 'On' switch. ![]() The A post goes to your alternator (make sure to fuse this if you add a whole new wire thereby bypassing the stock fuseable links). Here's the system I built and discarded because it doesn't work.įWIW - If you decide to procede with your installation: Loosing money on the Sure Power will suck but its not nearly as expensive as buying 2 new batteries every other year. Undervolting batteries drastically shortens their lives. If you could move the sense voltage wire to measure voltage at the battery, it would work. The diodes cause a voltage drop before the 13.7 v makes it to the batteries. Sure Power uses diodes to isolate the batteries. The sensing location is INSIDE the alternator. What happens is that the voltage regulator is measuring the alternator's output voltage to give a correct 13.7 v charge to the system. The Land Cruiser's alternators are not the 'special type' that work with the isolator. ![]() I even called several times to ensure I got a different tech to confirm. (Looking at the wiring diagrams for both the 60 and 62's shows the external wiring is the same.) I spoke to Sure Power's tech reps. I spent a lot of time trying to do on a 60 what you are trying to do on a 62. The packaging says it's specially made for Toyota internally regulated alternators. ![]() I tried to use the same Sure Power isolator: 95 Amp, Model: 9523A.
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